World

'Freedom' steak on menu

July 21, 2017
Cartoons adorn the walls of restaurant
Cartoons adorn the walls of restaurant "Le Dictateur" while a customer is served in the upmarket Cite Ennasr suburb of Tunis. — AFP

Tunis — A steak dubbed the "Grilled Freedom" is just one stand-out dish on the menu of the Tunisian capital's "Le Dictateur" restaurant, which is not exactly to the taste of officialdom.

Six years after the North African country's revolution that sparked the Arab Spring, "Le Dictateur" vies for the foodie business in the upmarket Cite Ennasr suburb of Tunis.

"We had to make ourselves known, to come up with a name and concept that attracted attention because good cuisine alone is often not enough," said owner Seif Ben Hammouda.

Against a bricked background, portraits that include Charlie Chaplin aping Adolf Hitler are mounted behind cages on the walls, creating a prison-like atmosphere.

Joseph Stalin and Melania Trump, wife of the US president, compete for space in murals on other walls, as a picture of Russian President Vladimir Putin also looks down on diners.

The oppressive theme extends to the menu, with signature dishes such as "Grilled Freedom", "Anarchy", "Opposition" and "Putsch" on offer.

"I wanted to take full advantage of the freedom of expression that's been the main achievement of the revolution," said the restaurateur, who returned in 2008 from France where he studied marketing and management.

Only last March did the restaurant open its doors under the daring name and logo of a figure resembling North Korean leader Kim Jong-Un but also sporting a Hitler moustache.

The Tunisian authorities were "very much disturbed", Ben Hammouda told AFP, and a wave of municipal and even some state officials descended on "Le Dictateur" to check it out.

The reasons they gave were that his paperwork and the hygienic conditions on the premises had to pass muster.

However, Ben Hammouda was also directly asked to change the establishment's name and logo -- "to avoid problems", as he was advised by one minister.

The project was all considered "a bit shocking", Ben Hammouda said.

But the fuss that was whipped up in the media only served to advertise "Le Dictateur" and bring in a stream of curious punters.

"The first time I came was to see what it looked like," said Malek.

He spoke as he was about to tuck into a "Citizen" salad and "Salazar" pasta named after Portugal's late dictator, Antonio de Oliveira Salazar.

"Le Dictateur" was eventually given permission to keep its bold restaurant sign, after a compromise was struck in which the Kim-lookalike logo was stripped of its toothbrush moustache.

"I'm enormously thankful to the authorities for all the free publicity," said Ben Hammouda, who stressed that the quality of the food remained his priority.

Hungry first-time visitor Chawki was eager to find out if the fare on offer lived up to the hype. — AFP


July 21, 2017
43 views
HIGHLIGHTS
World
11 minutes ago

Israel carries out strike inside Iran, US says as region braces for further escalation

World
15 hours ago

Prominent AfD figure stands trial for using Nazi slogan

World
15 hours ago

Poignant shot from Gaza wins World Press Photo of the Year 2024