Situated some 16 kms northwest of Jhelum, the imposing Rohtas fort is one of the finest castles in South Asia. The gigantic fort of Rohtas is a symbol of strength and determination of its builder — Farid Khan, who is known in the annals of history as Sher Shah Suri. Its great ramparts, growing from the cliff like a Wall of China, produce an awe-inspiring sight. This enormous stronghold is so strategically positioned that it commands the old route from the north to the planes of Punjab, across the extraordinary landscape of the Potwar Plateau. Commanding the gorge of the Kahan River, the fort was founded during 1540 to 1543 to prevent the possible return of the Mogul Emperor Humayun who after his defeat at Chaunsa had fled to Iran. The other purpose was to subdue the turbulent local Gakkhar tribes who held the control of the valley and were the old friend of the Moguls. 

 

Accessibility

 

Rohats Fort is accessible by a seven km small paved road turning westward from Dina, located nearly 98 km from Islamabad and 210 km from Lahore, on the Grand Trunk Road, also built by Sher Shah Suri. 

 

History of the Fort 

 

As the legend goes, Emperor Sher Shah Suri commanded his architect, Shahu Sultani, to build a huge invincible fortress to be built in 3 year. Unaware of the grandness of Sher Shah's designs, the fort that Shahu Sultani constructed was considerably smaller than the Emperor had visualized, and on seeing the completed structure, Sher Shah allowed the architect a further two years to build a fort more in keeping with his wishes. The construction of the desired fort started in 1543 AD. But fate did not permit Sher Shah Suri to visit the Fort as he was killed in a battle some time later. His reign lasted barely for six years (1539-1545 AD) However, the construction continued a further decade and some additional buildings were erected by successive rulers. The fort is named after the fort at Rohtas in Bengal, scene of one of Sher Shah's great victories.

 

Cost of Construction 

 

The work on the fort started with Todar Mal Khatri, Suri's revenue minister, as in charge of the project. The Gakkhars were never happy at it and did their best to boycott the builders. They pledged that they would not even work as day laborers. Under these difficult circumstances the construction of the fort cost Suri’s treasury a huge amount of money.

 

Tour of the Fort 

 

The great fort of Rohtas (Presently Majestic Ruins) has special attraction for anyone having a taste for castles. The circumference, about 4km, is large enough to hold a couple of division of troops, covering an area of approximately 12.6 acres, the fort is said to have accommodated some 12,000 people. The fortification has 68 bastions or towers, 12 gateways and three baolis (stepped wells) for self-sufficiency in water. It takes about 2-3 hours for a thorough exploration fort, and quite a lot of walking is involved. 

 

Most parts of the fort are in ruins except several large, imposing gates" and numerous posterns etc. Sohail gate, Place of Raja Maan Singh (Father-in-law of Akbar the Great) and a large execution Tower are worth seeing. Other building of note do not survive today except the rampart walls which are the prime attraction of this fort. Within the fort walls is the Rohtas village, which cropped up in the later days and has all the civic amenities. The fort has been divided into two main zones; the northwest quadrant, separated from the rest of fort by an inner wall. It is called Anderkot or 'inner citadel', and Akbar in Attock Fort has also an inner citadel.

 

Fortification Wall 

 

The most striking feature of the fort is its majestic and solid wall reinforced with 68 semi-circular bastions at irregular intervals. The wall, usually composed of two or three terraces, varies in thickness at different points, the maximum being 12.5 meters near the Mori gate. The height of the fortification wall ranges from 10m and a considerable number of galleries have been provided in the thickness of the wall for the soldiers and for use as storage space.

 

Other Buildings

 

It is very strange that in such a large Fort very few buildings were constructed. Among these buildings there is one mosque known as Shahi Masjid, a few Baolis and Haveli were added later by Maan Singh. In the absence of place, the Mogul emperors, while passing through the area, used to stay in the fort in tents. As the fort had only strategic position, no later ruler thought of building any luxurious structures for stay here. 

 

Shahi Mosque

 

This small but beautiful mosque is situated near the Kabuli Gate. It consists of only a prayer chamber and a courtyard. The prayer chamber which is 19.2 meters long and 7.3 meters deep is divided into three bays with arched openings. The face of the sanctuary had three arched openings. Although the roofing of the prayer chamber is domical from inside, it has no domes on the outer side. The mosque on the whole is a fine specimen of compact decorative and elegant religious architecture of the Suri period.

 

Baolis

 

To achieve self-sufficiency in water, baolis were made by cutting deep the lime rock. One of these lies near the Kabuli Gate and the other near the Mori Gate. There are small chambers around the baoli presumably to be used as baths for the royal family.

 

Haveli Maan Singh (White Palace)

 

The haveli named after the trusted general of Akbar's court who died in 1614 AD is the most conspicuous structure built on a rock at a very uneven site. It is a double-story building and is built with bricks and plaster, rather than the stone used elsewhere in the fort. Its domed roof is toped by a Hindu style lotus emblem.

 

Rani Mahal

 

Located about 300 meters beyond the Haveli is the Rani Mahal which has as minaret 80 feet high with engraved flowers in sandstone. Here were chambers for the guard and a door connecting the two castles. 

 

Attractions Around Rohtas

 

Tilla Jogian

 

Tilla Jogian, the highest peak in Salt Range (3200 feet above sea level), is 12km to the west of Rohtas Fort and is a pleasant picnic spot. It is famous for the extensive ruins of a Hindu Temple, which dates back to the time of Alexander the Great. From the top, there is a magnificent view down over the endless fields of the Potwar Plateau. Tilla is also mentioned in numerous folktales of the region.

 

Srichola Sahib

 

In the north west of the Fort is the 'Srichola Sahib' which was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The building has now became a place of worship for the Sikh community. According to a legend, the Sikh spiritual leader Guru Nanak (1469-1543) had told Emperor Babar that he would rule India for seven generations, and the prophecy came true. 

 

Mangla Dam

 

16 km east of Dina lies the third largest earth filled dam in the world with a large lake spanning about 160 sq km and offering panoramic views. There is also a powerhouse with a stunning 20m by 100m mural painted in 1967 by the famous Pakistani artist Sadequain. Mangla Dam and Rohtas make a good weekend excursion from either Islamabad or Lahore. —SG